Dallas Morning News - December 31, 2004, by Kim Harwell
Still a pantheon of Greek dining
BIG 10: It's been more than 10 years since Ziziki's made its auspicious debut in Travis Walk, and the upscale Greek eatery is as sophisticated and appealing as ever. In the ensuing decade, owners Costa and Mary Arabatzis opened a spinoff in North Dallas (there's also a location in Maui, Hawaii), and there are plans for a new European-style coffeehouse. But the new ventures don't seem to have taken the Arabatzises' focus off the original. In fact, the Travis Walk space recently underwent a nip and tuck of its own, adding a second private dining area with seating for 20.
HIT THE SAUCE: The restaurant takes its name from the Greek condiment made from creamy yogurt and cucumbers that accompanies many of Ziziki's menu items (though it's usually spelled tzatziki). It's served as a dipping sauce with the namesake Ziziki bread ($5.95), addictive triangles of fresh pita topped with a light layer of cheese, olive oil, garlic and Greek herbs, then broiled until warm but not crisp. It also accompanies the sautéed calamari appetizer ($9.95), a generous plate of tender seafood kissed with olive oil, white wine and lemon juice that is served with a chunky, sweet tomato-based sauce as well.
FEELING SHEEPISH: Lamb lovers will find themselves faced with an embarrassment of riches: The meat is featured in entrees ranging from souvlaki to moussaka (an eggplant-laced Greek rendition of shepherd's pie) to paella. Rosemary- and garlic-marinated rack of lamb ($28.95) was juicy and flavorful, nicely matched by its accompanying red-wine reduction. Velvety herb-laced mashed potatoes and skinny asparagus spears rounded out the plate.
FOOD OF THE GODS: The Greek Gods Platter ($24.95) is perfect for the undecided diner. It features small portions of lamb souvlaki, spanakopita (crispy phyllo dough layered with spinach, onions and feta cheese) and pastitsio (referred to as "Greek lasagna" but made with macaroni noodles rather than flat pasta). While the spanakopita and the pastitsio were rich and comforting, the chunks of lamb were a bit dry, though they perked up considerably when garnished with the tangy tzatziki sauce.
THE SWEET SPOT: Though not usually a fan of baklava (it's often too dry and cloying), I was won over by the baklava ice cream cake ($7), a generous wedge of fluffy vanilla ice cream shot through with thin layers of the dense, nutty Greek pastry.
WINES OF DISTINCTION: Since 1995, Ziziki's has been an annual recipient of Wine Spectator's Award of Excellence, and the restaurant's wine list features a vast array of selections from around the globe, with more than three dozen available by the glass.
AGING WELL: Though the decor hasn't been updated much in the last 10 years, the dining room is still inviting. A black-and-white tile floor remains from the space's long-ago life as a deli, but muted color schemes and Mediterranean trompe l'oeil murals soften the focus. An exhibition kitchen and rich cherry-wood bar add to the visual appeal.
THE WEAKEST LINK: If Ziziki's has a weak spot, it's service. Though our dinner visit started out promisingly, our once-attentive server became somewhat less so as the evening wore on; we experienced noticeable delays by the time we were ready to place our dessert order and, finally, request our check. Still, the service gaffes were slight and not nearly enough to keep us from coming back to this chic Greek spot for another full decade.
P.S.: In fact, after filing this review we went back for lunch - and service was fine, even though the place was packed.